17 June 2001, 7am
Eastern Atlantic Ocean

I've been flying since about 4:30pm yesterday, and the plane is now about an hour away from London. As I look out the window at the vast cloudscape whose color is so opaque that I feel almost as if I could go leaping along it, leaving deep bootprints as though it were solid, this voyage still doesn't seem quite real.

I wonder if these Isles will be as they have been in my dreams, the sleeping amalgamations of reading stories and legends since I was a small boy. More importantly, I wonder just what it is the Almighty has for me to discover in these ancient places.

O Holy Trinity, watch over me and keep me safe. Holy Christopher and Brendan, voyage with me. Holy Angel, stand next to me.

18 June 2001, 10:30pm
Notting Hill, London

I took the train yesterday to Victoria Station in central London from the Gatwick airport. There I was met by the host for the London portion of my pilgrimage, Prof. John Cunningham, a.k.a. "Cleverbacon." We went directly to the local Russian cathedral, pausing a moment for me to don my Reader's cassock. It was somehow a rather perfect beginning to my pilgrimage to be at the Divine Liturgy, although one might not expect it to be so, since the place was not exactly very English. Nonetheless, the cathedral is a converted Anglican parish building, and many of the communicants are English converts.

After church, we travelled to Notting Hill and ate at a small French bistro named Le Piaf, which boasted good duck and even a charming blonde French waitress. John later remarked that my attempt at ordering in French constituted shameless flirting on my part, and though I did not feel as though I were flirting, she did smile at my again today as I greeted her with "Bonsoir" when we stopped in for coffee this evening. Most of the remainder of the day was spent in learning the tube system and in rest.

I woke up late this morning and set out alone. I took a boat tour along the Thames down to Greenwich. Along the way I saw many famous sites, all narrated by an extremely amusing young Englishman. Upon arrival in Greenwich, I strolled about, seeing the old Royal Naval College and the Queen's House. I then climbed the steep hill to the Royal Observatory and saw the Prime Meridian, the site of Greenwich Mean Time. I walked back down the hill into Greenwich. It really is a rather charming spot, even apart from its landmarks. While there, I noticed the Church of St. Alphege (the site of the saint's martyrdom) and went inside. It is a lovely old Anglican church, but I was puzzled to see a few Orthodox icons here and there. I did kneel for a moment and light a candle at a copy of St. Andrei Rublev's Holy Trinity.

Walking then through the tunnel under the Thames, I boarded the train to the Tower of London. It is a wonderful old place, with all the grandeur and foreboding one expects from it, complete with both Beefeater guards and large black ravens. I saw the Royal Crown Jewels while there, and they are all shiny, just like you'd hope. I began heading home, but not before picking up a bottle of Tower of London Mead for a mere seven and a half pounds.

I arrived back at John's flat in Notting Hill, we had a small supper, and then we took a stroll along some of the nearby streets, eventually stopping back at Le Piaf for the aforementioned coffee.

Tomorrow morning, the plan is to see some of the British Museum, but now the plan is to sleep.

19 June 2001, 11:30am
Front steps of the British Museum,
Bloomsbury, London

I took the tube this morning to the British Museum, where some of the most famous artifacts in the world are housed. I saw the Lewish Chessmen; sculptures from the Parthenon; a number of Byzantine, Russian and Coptic icons and pieces of "holy hardware"; the Sutton Hoo burial items; and the extremely famous Rosetta Stone. I was actually able to read some of the Greek on it, and somehow I felt connected to many people all at once. I had more or less luck with some of the other Greek here and there in the museum.

The Lindisfarne Gospels were not here as I had hoped, but I have some leads on tracking them down. They may well be in Lindisfarne, in which case I am in luck.

John is due to show for lunch in 15 minutes, then after lunch, it's to the Globe we go. I think now I'll just enjoy the sunshine and watch these tourists from so many worlds.

21 June 2001, 11pm
Notting Hill, London

After lunch at the Globe restaurant on Tuesday, we took in a production of King Lear at the truly legendary Globe Theatre. I had been waiting all my life for such a moment, and I was by no means disappointed. Cordelia was charming and Northern Irish, and I was in tears as Lear bore her body on his back at the end of the play. I went away feeling a bit shaken by it all --- I had now seen a play at the Globe. God does sometimes grant fond wishes.

The next day, I rose and took the tube down to Westminster to see the overwhelmingly Gothic Houses of Parliament. It so happened that Parliament was to be opened that day (subsequent to a recent election), and so the Queen herself rolled by in a carriage. I then took the tube to meet John for some fine dining at a French restaurant named Pied a' Terre. It was one of those where everything was quite tasty but also quite small and pricey.

After lunch, I donned my cassock and boarded the train to Surrey. There, in the massive Brookwood Cemetary, is the monastic shrine church of St. Edward the Martyr-King of England. I ate dinner with the monks, then one, Fr. Niphon, took me inside the church. While there, I was blessed by God to venerate many holy icons and also the precious relics of many saints: Edward the Martyr, John Chrysostom (my patron), the Apostles Andrew and Peter, Ambrose, Jerome, Catherine, Columba of Iona, John of San Francisco, John of Kronstadt (they have his personal service book!), and our Holy Lady Theotokos. There were others I cannot remember but I hope that all will remember me in their prayers. Vespers was then served, and afterwards Fr. Niphon loaded me down with icon cards, pamphlets, and a few pieces of cloth which had rested on the relics of the Holy Edward. I was sad to leave, but I promised I would return if I were ever in the area again.

The next day (today), I went to the British Library. There I saw the Lindisfarne Gospels. I looked at them for several minutes, then looked at some of the other manuscripts on display. I found myself drawn back to the Gospels. Truly that book has been in the hands of saints. I cannot describe it but to say that the book has its own presence.

After leaving the library, I went to St. Paul's Cathedral and climbed the many steps to the top of the dome. The view was wonderful. While at St. Paul's, I also saw the effigy statue of John Donne. May our Lord grant him rest eternal.

I then grabbed a quick lunch and made my way to Westminster Abbey. I delighted especially in seeing the graves and monuments of Eliot, Chaucer, Johnson, Jonson, Shakespeare, and others. I was most pleased to be allowed to stand at the shrine of St. Edward the Confessor, owing to the kindness of an old lady working there. St. Edward, pray for me!

After leaving the Abbey, I went to the Catholic Westminster Cathedral, a Byzantinesque style church -- quite lovely. While I was there, a marriage was being performed there in the chapel of St. Patrick.

Throughout today, I kept noticing Orthodox icons in the strangest of places, even in Westminster Abbey. They do seem to be creeping their way into Western culture.

This evening, after making an omelet, I set back out to the Globe to see MacBeth. It was a good production, though it did not grip me as did Lear on Tuesday.

Anyhow, it is now to bed.

23 June 2001, 2pm
Steps of Parish Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields,
Trafalgar Square, London

Yesterday, after a short lunch, John and I caught the train to Windsor. Upon arrival, we had a look 'round Windsor Castle, where Her Majesty was in residence. The castle itself is nearly 1,000 years old, though parts are more recent. It didn't thrill me, but it was nice to have seen it.

We also travelled across the Thames to Eton and saw parts of the famed school for boys there. I saw a number of the students walking about in their white shirts, black trousers, vests and tailed jackets. We then made our way back to London and Notting Hill.

That evening, I saw Hamlet with Simon Russell Beal. It was altogether an excellent production, and I particularly noted imagery of the Cross throughout the play.

This morning, I woke up and had a leisurely morning at the flat. I then grabbed a quick lunch and took the tube to Trafalgar Square and Covent Gardens. In the Square is currently some sort of concert on the steps of the largest monument. The group calls itself the "Jesus Army," and its style and tone remind me of similar Evangelical Protestant groups in the US, though with English accents.

Covent Gardens is filled with music and with many people. It was interesting moving through the crowds alone, somehow not a part of it all, as though I were somehow invisible.

24 June 2001, 9:30pm
Notting Hill, London

After my trip to Covent Gardens yesterday evening, I went back to Notting Hill to see the famed Portobello Road. It is home to many open-air antique stalls and various other shops, and it is also not quite so wide as I remember it from the movie "Bedknobs and Broomsticks."

That evening, John and I went to the Vigil at the Russian cathedral to begin celebrating the feast of All Saints of Britain. John left about halfway through, since he was tired, but I stayed. Eventually, an acolyte named Jeremy came out of the sanctuary and asked me if I spoke English. Upon my affirmation, he invited me to into the sanctuary where I met an American priest, Fr. John. I spoke with him briefly, then he said I should serve there in the morning, after I had remained there for the rest of the Vigil. I then took the bus (after meeting several other Orthodox at the bus stop), and eventually found myself bewildered and lost. I left the bus and started walking through what John termed a "grim" part of town later. After getting more tired and frustrated, I got in touch with John, and eventually a car came and got me. I thank God that I was all right, even lost in such a massive city as this. He even happened to send a driver from the car service who was Orthodox! I finally got to bed.

This morning, I went to church and made my way up to the altar. There I met most of the clergy, including Metr. Anthony (Bloom) and Abp. Anatoly. It was a great blessing to get to serve with htem, and after the service, I thanked Vladyka Anthony and told him that I very much liked his book Beginning to Pray. He is truly a warm and Christ-loving man.

After church, I rang Mr. Cowey Barbour, a Northern Irishman living in London, and we went to a pub for lunch near Charing Cross. He gave me some notes on finding my way around Iona and Belfast, and then we took a walk around St. James's Park and saw Buckingham Palace. He then took me to the tube station and bade me Godspeed. I liked him very much, and we'll probably meet again, since he is going to be in the Raleigh area in September. I must also see if I can find in the States the Weston's Hard Cider which I had at the pub. I then passed the rest of the day restfully, and now I shall sleep, for in the morning I take the train to Scotland.